Taming landrace/tropical sativas indoors

Looking for tips/place to share information from other growers that grow landrace/ tropical sativas in “standard” height rooms/tents. Any and all tips! . Small pots, lots of LST, topping etc

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let’s beging with some “history” to see how they was making photo from the late 70’s I found at the @mexcurandero420 IG profile

Seems that they was not scared to have big tends that time :grin::raising_hands:

But now let’s see also some modern style!

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The simple trick of 12/12 light since begin seedlingphase. I do veg but i bend twitch stem till snap to tame stretch ( supercrop, kyle kushman chiropractic ) its def better to do with 2 hands . Here is my Malawi Gold cut. All credits go to @Loveof_Landrace468 ofc , i like to bend them it does tame the stretch , it might look crazy but she will get up again , only 2m high tent

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and i‘m experimenting with HST. I Hope there will be some left to make pictures of after :laughing:

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Super malawi haze , ace seeds 100ish days flower, very much c haze dominant , she needed the taming, only 100 watt in small tents, if i use more watt im not conform with the law …

The stem bending triggers way bigger buds

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Looks awesome good information thanks

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I seen them doing good in 5l soil and 12/12 since begin,i prefer 20 or 30l , its rather very satisfying and go as you feel it best, dry amended soil water only works perfect for me

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I’ve grown a lot of sativas and landrace sativa stuff in tents.

Growing from 12/12 actually brings more stretch.

Best to start at normal vegging lighting - anywhere from 16-24hrs of light, then induce flowering once plants have a few nodes. I usually wait until 5 nodes.

Then I go down to 11 hrs lights on schedule. Sativas get bigger under 12/12 so I just take an hour or so off the lights on schedule. This keeps them much more manageable indoors.

I also go light on the nitrogen and figure out how much they need by letting the bottom leaves just start going yellow then feed them just a little more and keep up through the grow.

Finally, the biggest trick is soil volume. I stagger the potting size. Start small in something like a solo cup, then go up to a 4" container around the time I’m going to induce flowering, then finally to a bigger container a couple weeks after inducing flowering light cycle. Root mass dictates plant size more than anything. So this is the way to do it.

Here’s a Madagascar in a tool shed. Not going for buds, just seeds, so not a pretty grow , but gets the job done. I uppotted her a little earlier to see what her structure is like so she got wild, but her sisters were kept in smaller 4" containers throughout their flowering cycle and stayed below 5 feet

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And heres her sister kept in a 4" container

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Thanks for info, covered a lot of what I was second guessing and questioning . I’m planning to grow them just for the unique effects and small personal breeding too so small pots would be more than enough it seems. Any special germination you do for landrace seeds or direct sowing? I have 4 “ pots I’ve been direct sowing and then backfilling as they grow. Started my outdoor plants under t5’s but I have a 4x4 Vivosun kit I grabbed on sale for 4/20 I need to setup and get to it!

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Ah yes the famous this is the way :sweat_smile: lets see ,any sources or proof to that 12 /12 makes stretch more? usin mh in veg or led with blue , there wont be more stretch as if you let them veg out , esp in smaller pots,

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I’m not speaking for him but I think the “this is way to do it” was referring to the rootball/soil volume not 12/12. I’ve read both that people are running from seed 12/12 and others also vegging plants out 14/10 before flipping for cultivars that never see 18 hours of light in their natural environment. That’s why I’m curious what everyone does and why! The t5’s I have had lots of blue light and they definitely kept plants manageable inside.

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Any sources to support that last claim?

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in 12/12 the veg stretch is the issue , flowerstretch only starts after flower appeared before that happens, one needs to avoid this stretch , seen it happen enough under hps , african seeds malawi gold , mekong high, osage pheno , ace othaze or killer malawi, all tropicals will stretch fast in the 12/ 12 veg if the light is not blue enough , and the blue light wil trigger big yieldin bushy plants as u can see on my malawi gold microgrow . There is enough knowledge and enough people been doing it very successful. Not saying your way is not good fyi , but there is never only one way …

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Research and form your own plan follow during the grow. Take the best of what you read. Below is one article I used and the settings I choose.

Growing a true landrace sativa indo.txt (1.6 KB)

"Growing a true landrace sativa indoors requires precise management of LED light settings, to accommodate their extreme stretching and long flowering cycles.

Vegetative Stage: Set your light cycle to 18/6 (hours on/off). Set the LED to high-blue output, with a canopy intensity of 300–450 PPFD, positioned about 18 to 24 inches above the canopy.

Flowering Stage: Initiate the 12/12 light cycle when plants are very small (around one-quarter to one-third of your final desired height). Shift the channel to red-heavy. Ramp up the intensity gradually to 700–900 PPFD, hanging 12 to 18 inches away from the canopy.

Late Flower: You can further shorten the day length to a 10/14 or 11/13 (light/dark) cycle over the final weeks to better mimic their natural equatorial environment.

Recommended Channel Settings:

Many modern, full-spectrum LED fixtures feature independent channels. The most optimal breakdown by stage includes:

White Channel: Run at 100% in vegetative growth to provide the broad-spectrum “daylight” your sativa needs.

Blue Channel: Keep around 70-80% during veg to keep intermodal spacing tight. Lower this to 50-60% during the mid-to-late flowering phase.

Red & Far-Red Channels: Keep at 20-30% during veg, as too much red early on will cause the plant to stretch unmanageably. During the flower cycle, crank these up to 100% to trigger budding.

Far-red (730nm) should be kept to roughly 10-15% of the total output to encourage maximum flower weight.

UV-A/UV-B Channel: Leave at 0% for veg, but turn on to 10% during the final 2-3 weeks of flowering to boost trichome density and terpene production."

The spectrum settings I assembled: (time within each stage is plant dependent, after harvest I set exact length of time)

Basic Controller Settings Sativa.txt (1.3 KB) (Personal choice)

"Basic Controller Settings and Recommendations - Sativa

Germination (weeks 1) (Controller week 1 Days 1 - 7)
R 0%
W 30%
B 99%
24" canopy height, On 05 - Off 23, root development, 70–80% humidity, sunrise/sunset 15 minutes

Seedlings (weeks ) (Controller week 2 Day 1 - until transplant)
R 30%
W 99%
B 70%
24" canopy height, On 18 - Off 06, two sets true leaves or transplant, 70–80% humidity, sunrise/sunset 15 minutes

Growth (weeks - supercrop apical @ 24” ) (Controller weeks)
R 40%
W 99%
B 80%
24" canopy height, On 18 - Off 06, Install trellis, train, 70–80% humidity, sunrise/sunset 15 minutes.

Pre-Flower (weeks 2) (Controller week)
R 99%
W 99%
B 50%
24" canopy height, On 18 - Off 05, train, 70–80% humidity, sunrise/sunset 15 minutes.

Flower (weeks 14) (Controller week)
R 99%
W 99%
B 40%
24" canopy height, On 18 - Off 05, train, 70–80% humidity, 50–60% humidity mid-flower stage, sunrise/sunset 15 minutes. Start UVB @ 15 minutes on the hour. Begin 1 hour after lights on, end 1 hour before lights off. Monitor canopy distance for light burn

Finish (<2 weeks - plant dependent) (Controller weeks)
R 30%
W 99%
B 99%
24" canopy height, On 18 - Off 05, 40–50% humidity, sunrise/sunset 15 minutes. UVB optional. Trichomes ready

HARVEST

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Some have good results with smaller containers. Smaller rootball, smaller plant, faster finish theory. It is always worth consideration . I didn’t go to that extreme but I did step down from 5 gallons to 3 gallons for my current attempt to grow a thai landrace. Everything I’m saying is assumption until I harvest.

You’re doing good brother . . .

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My first landrace dwc grow. Started in 18/6 with a 2 week veg. Flipped to 12/12 and ran that for about a month and a half before switching to 10/14 to try and force flowering. Went from a 5L bucket to a 10L 67 days into flower once the first bud sights began to show. She stretched like hell but I think having her on flower nutrients for so long helped.

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I did a 16 h veg on my malawi gold and then went on 14 till first signs if lady then went down on 12/12 . Did see i forgot to mention that , feels like 18h triggers more veg hormones on true feral genetics vs ibl and hybrids imo . Beautiful monster man !!

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Thank you, she’s been fun to grow. This is a landrace Bagseed that I got in south Thailand while visiting my wife’s friend.

Once I switched to 12/12 is when she began to veg out in an increased rate. I topped once and super cropped every day, bought a trellis net just before she hit the lights. I’m sure dwc aided in the rapid growth​:face_with_hand_over_mouth: next time I’ll do a 1 week veg in 18/6 then flip to 10/14 or grow it out big enough to cut small clones and flip those once their ready.

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